Steering effort tells a story about a vehicle’s purpose and age. Manual steering suits light cars and patient drivers, but add bigger tires, a front-mounted winch, or tight parking, and it turns into a workout. Converting to power steering changes how a vehicle feels day to day. It modernizes an old truck without erasing its character. You still feel the road, only now you have leverage on your side.
This guide walks through a typical manual to power steering conversion using a power steering conversion kit. Kits vary by year and model, but the core sequence holds steady. I will call out places where the process often goes sideways and where you might need aftermarket steering components such as a steering universal joint, an aftermarket steering shaft, or a steering box conversion kit. Expect a weekend of work if you wrench regularly, and a full week of evenings if this is your first go.
Planning the conversion before you unbolt anything
Spend a quiet hour with the kit on the bench. Identify each bracket, bolt, hose, and fitting, and match them to the instructions. Confirm your pump’s pulley type matches your crank pulley and accessory drive. V-belt systems want V pulleys, serpentine systems need serpentine pulleys aligned to the existing belt path. Sight down the pulleys with a straightedge. If alignment is off by more than a couple millimeters, plan for shims or bracket tweaks.
Next, settle the steering gear choice. Some applications use a steering box conversion kit that adapts a later power steering box to an older frame. Others relocate the gear slightly forward or rearward, which changes the steering shaft angle. That drives whether you stick with the factory intermediate shaft or need a new aftermarket steering shaft with a double or single steering universal joint. Measure from the column output to the gear input, center to center, while the column is at ride height. Borgeson power steering kit Add slack for column movement and engine roll.
If your vehicle used a rag joint at the column or box, decide whether you will keep it. A rag joint filters vibration but adds play. A universal joint steering setup tightens response but transmits more feel. In old leaf-sprung trucks with solid front axles, a rag joint can be worth keeping for street comfort unless you are building a dedicated trail rig.
Last, scan your exhaust routing and oil pan. Some chassis place the steering box where headers want to live. If a primary tube kisses the box by even a finger’s width, heat soak will cook seals. Plan a heat shield or consider shorty headers that tuck tighter.
What a complete kit should contain
Kits are not all equal. A thorough power steering conversion kit usually includes the steering box, pump, brackets, pulley, belt, hoses with proper fittings, hardware, a pitman arm matched to the box output spline, and sometimes a new idler arm or center link. Some kits leave out the steering shaft components, expecting you to source a collapsible aftermarket steering shaft and a steering universal joint that suits your column and the new box input spline.
Do not assume tie rod ends, drag link ends, and idler arm are reusable. If they have 80,000 miles on them, you are stacking wear onto a fresh system. Steering feels its best when all the joints start at zero play. If you are already under the truck, this is your moment.
Safety and workspace habits that keep the project enjoyable
Support the front of the vehicle on stands rated above the curb weight per pair. Chock the rear tires on both sides. I prefer to remove the front wheels because it opens visual access to the steering linkage and frame rail. Disconnect the battery, not because the pump is electric, but because you will snake a wrench near hot leads. Lay out clean trays for fasteners. If you bag and tag parts by assembly, the reinstallation goes faster and you will not mix hardware.
A steering wheel likes to spin when the intermediate shaft is disconnected. Tie the wheel at center with a bungee to a grab handle or the pedal bracket. If the wheel spins freely and strikes the clock spring, you risk killing a horn or airbag circuit on later-model columns.
Removing manual gear and prepping the mount points
Manual boxes typically mount with three or four bolts through the frame. Penetrating oil helps, but heat is king on rusted hardware. A small propane torch can make a stubborn bolt civil in thirty seconds. If the nut turns the frame sleeve, you may need to clamp the sleeve with locking pliers, or in worst cases, cut and replace the sleeve later. Expect to coax the pitman arm off the sector shaft with a puller. Do not hammer on the sector shaft. It mushrooms easily and then your new pitman arm will not slip on.
With the box out, scrape the frame rail clean. Old film will make your torque values lie. If your kit uses a different bolt pattern, test fit the new box and mark holes precisely. This step is where a helper shines. One person holds the box in position while the other marks. Drill slowly and square to the frame surface. Burrs cause misalignment, so clean them. If the frame needs a reinforcement plate, install it. These plates spread load and reduce frame flex around the box bolts, which improves steering feel on trucks that see big tires or trail chatter.
Pump brackets, belts, and the small geometry battles
Brackets are the art of this job. Factory brackets are stiff and triangulated in smart ways. Some aftermarket brackets flex if they are thin or too long. Before tightening anything, mock up the pump and bracket loosely on the engine. Slip the pulley on, align with the crank and water pump pulley, and hold a straightedge across the faces. If it toes out or in, adjust the bracket spacers or shim the bracket to the head. I keep a pack of 1 mm and 2 mm washers for this dance.
On small block V8s that share a belt for alternator and pump, you want belt wrap above 120 degrees on the crank pulley and at least 90 degrees on the pump pulley. Too little wrap and the belt squeals at parking-lot speeds. If your wrap is marginal, consider a shorter belt or a slightly different bracket position that changes the pulley relationship. On serpentine systems, tensioner travel matters more than wrap. Keep the pointer in the mid range, not pegged at the end.
Flare fittings on the pump and box are easy to crossthread when working at odd angles. Start every fitting by hand. When the threads are happy, a flare nut wrench finishes the job without rounding.
Steering shaft geometry and universal joint choices
Power boxes often sit at a slightly different angle compared to manual boxes. That angle pushes the steering shaft off its old path. A rag joint has limited angular capacity. A steering universal joint, or a double U-joint arrangement, handles more angle safely. Aim for less than 30 degrees at any single joint. If you need more, split it across two joints and add a support bearing midway to prevent shaft whip. Collapsible aftermarket steering shafts are worth the money for both safety and adjustability. They also help you fine tune length without cutting the factory column.
Before you cut or commit to a final shaft length, center the box. Count turns from lock to lock, then set the input shaft exactly at the center. Set the steering wheel to center and lock it with your bungee. Only then do you fit the shaft and universal joint steering connections. That way, the wheel’s straight-ahead position matches the box’s true center where the internal valve or the worm-and-sector mesh most precisely. On Saginaw-style boxes, the center is the smoothest, tightest spot. If you mount off-center, you will feel a vague notch on one side of center while driving.
Spline counts and sizes vary. Do not force a 3/4-36 coupling onto a 3/4-30 spline. If you have to persuade it with more than light pressure, it is wrong. Match the part number and test fit dry before you get under the vehicle.
Hoses, fittings, and avoiding aeration headaches
High-pressure hoses carry serious force. A typical system idles around 300 to 600 psi and can climb past 1,200 psi during a steering stop. That is why routing and crimp quality matter. Keep at least an inch of clearance from headers. A soft loop in the hose allows for engine movement. Hard bends close to the fitting create a stress riser and early failure. If your kit came with generic hose lengths, mock the path and trim once. Double-check that the hose end clocking matches the path so the hose is not twisted when tightened.
Return lines are low pressure but just as important for noise and feel. A long gentle run to the reservoir reduces aeration. Some setups benefit from a small inline filter on the return with a magnet, especially on fresh builds where machining debris might circulate. Keep the filter serviceable. Do not bury it under the battery tray.
Mounting the steering box and tying into the linkage
With the frame prepped and the holes right, lift the steering box into place and run the bolts finger-tight first. If your steering box conversion kit includes frame spacers, follow the orientation exactly. Torque specs vary, but you typically see 65 to 100 ft-lb range on box-to-frame hardware. Use blue thread locker if the instructions call for it. Heavy washers under bolt heads spread load and prevent witness marks from printing into the frame paint.
Install the pitman arm on the sector shaft only after confirming the box is on center. Sector shafts are often indexed. Still, I lightly mark the shaft and arm with a paint pen. That way, if you need to remove it later, you put it back in the same orientation. Pitman arm nuts demand serious torque, sometimes north of 180 ft-lb. A deep socket and a breaker bar are your friends. If you have a torque multiplier, now is the time.
Connect the pitman arm to the center link with a fresh castle nut and cotter pin. Grease the joint. If the steering linkage sits at a steep angle at ride height, you might be on the wrong hole of a dropped pitman arm or the geometry has changed more than the kit anticipated. Do not ignore bump steer symptoms on your test drive. If the wheel jerks over bumps, your center link and control arm arcs are not playing together. The cure is usually tie rod end height correction, not more toe-in.
Fluids and the first start-up
Most domestic systems run Dexron III or a dedicated power steering fluid specified by the pump or vehicle maker. Old seals dislike full synthetic fluids on some classic applications, so check your kit’s recommendation. Fill the reservoir to the cold line. Leave the cap off. Jack the front axle enough to lift the tires clear. With the engine off, slowly turn the wheel from lock to lock, ten to twenty times. You are purging air mechanically without the pump churning it into foam. Top up as the level drops.
Now start the engine and let it idle. The level will drop a bit more. Do not rev the engine yet. Turn the wheel gently side to side, hold briefly at each near-stop, but do not park it hard against the stop for more than a second. Long holds at full lock can spike pressure and damage seals, especially during initial bleeding when aeration is high. Watch for tiny foam bubbles. They signal air entrainment. If the fluid turns milky, shut down and let it de-aerate for fifteen minutes, then continue.
When the fluid stays clear and the steering feels even both directions, cap the reservoir. Check for leaks at the flare fittings and hose crimps. A small weep becomes a mess on the road.
Alignment and on-road feel
Any time you disturb the steering linkage, toe changes. Some conversions also alter caster if you swapped control arms or moved the steering box location. Set a quick tape-measure toe as a starting point. I shoot for an eighth inch total toe-in on old trucks that still run bias ply or narrow radials, and closer to zero on modern radials. Then schedule a professional alignment with the vehicle at normal ride height and weight. Bring your wheel centering tool and notes. If the shop does not know you changed the box ratio, they might test-drive and think the wheel is too quick off center. Communicate.
Expect a different on-center feel. Manual boxes often run higher mechanical advantage, so you may have been masking play with effort. A fresh power steering box with a tighter ratio will feel more direct. Road crown that you ignored before may pull a bit until you reset toe and caster to suit the new feel.
Judgment calls that separate a tidy conversion from a noisy one
Power steering is sensitive to belt tension and pump bracket rigidity. If you blip the throttle with the hood up and the pump bracket blurs, the belt will complain. Add a triangulation strap to the bracket ear or step up to a thicker bracket. Some aftermarket brackets can be reinforced cheaply with a simple gusset you cut and weld from 1/8 inch steel.
Noise tells a story. A faint whine that changes with steering effort points to aeration or a misaligned pulley. A chirp when you hit full lock is normal for a second, but sustained squeal is slip. Address that with belt length and tension, not by cranking the adjuster to the moon. Over-tensioned belts eat water pump bearings and accelerate pump wear.
Heat kills pumps. If you tow or wheel in low range where steering sees constant load at low vehicle speed, consider a small power steering cooler in the return line. Mount it in front of the radiator or as a frame-mounted finned tube. Keep it modest. Huge coolers can over-cool in winter and thicken the fluid.
When an aftermarket steering shaft earns its keep
I learned this the hard way on a 1972 K10 that got a later Saginaw power box. The column-to-box angle increased just enough that the factory rag joint rubbed the header primary only when the engine torqued over climbing a hill in second gear. You could not reproduce it in the shop. After chasing ghosts, the cure was a collapsible aftermarket steering shaft with a compact steering universal joint that bought half an inch of clearance. It also cleaned up the steering feel noticeably. The downside, you feel more tire texture at low speeds and a bit more kick on potholes. On that truck, it was a trade worth making because it steered into tight switchbacks without binding.
Choosing the right steering box and ratio for your use
A steering box conversion kit may offer multiple ratios. A quicker box around 12.7 to 1 makes parking effortless and feels lively in town. On a short wheelbase rig with tall tires, it can feel twitchy on the highway until you adjust. A slower ratio around 16 to 1 keeps the truck calmer at speed. If you spend most of your time on the highway or tow, err on the slower side. If the truck is a street cruiser or sees tight urban driving, the quicker option might be worth it. Some builders choose variable ratio boxes that ease into center and quicken off center. They feel natural once you spend a week with them.
Compatibility with your pitman arm matters too. Sector shaft diameters and spline counts vary. Using the wrong pitman arm can alter your effective steering ratio at the tires and cause interference with the drag link at full droop. Always mock full suspension travel if the truck is lifted. You do not want the drag link kissing the frame on compression because you gained an extra quarter inch of throw at the pitman.
A realistic, compact step sequence you can tape to the fender
- Inventory the power steering conversion kit, confirm pulley alignment plan, and gather fluids and tools. Remove the manual box, pitman arm, and related linkage, clean and prep the frame, and test fit the new box. Install pump brackets and pulley, align belts, and mock hoses for length and routing away from heat. Fit the steering shaft with the appropriate steering universal joint or aftermarket steering shaft, centering the wheel and box. Fill, bleed, torque all fasteners, set preliminary toe, and test drive gently while listening for noise and watching for leaks.
That sequence keeps you from painting yourself into a corner with hose lengths or shaft geometry. It also front-loads the alignment checks before you throw fluid in and create a mess.
Common pitfalls and the fixes that stick
The most common mistake is ignoring the need for a support bearing when you run two universal joints on the steering shaft. Without a mid-support, the shaft can wobble under load, which feels like a faint click at the wheel. A simple firewall-mounted bearing block cures it and extends joint life.
Flare fittings that seep at the pump outlet often trace back to an inverted flare mating to an o-ring style port. They look similar at a glance. Use the correct adapter, not pipe dope. Pipe thread is rare on factory pumps and boxes. If a thread looks tapered and someone before you used sealant, stop and identify the port.
Another frequent issue is a mis-matched reservoir. Some pumps rely on a remote reservoir mounted above the pump to prevent cavitation. If you try to run a low-mounted remote reservoir below pump level, you invite aeration. Follow the pump design. If it wants an attached can, use the right can. If it wants a remote, mount it high with a gentle feed hose.
Lastly, torque the steering box bolts again after your first shakedown. Frames settle paint and plates seat. I have seen bolts relax by as much as a quarter turn after fifty miles. That small movement can translate into a click or drift under steering load.
Manual to power steering conversion on specific platforms
Vintage Mustangs, Novas, and F-series trucks each have their quirks. Early Mustangs often benefit from a better idler arm and a rollerized spring perch along with the conversion, otherwise the new assist exposes the friction in the rest of the system. Chevy square-body trucks with big block swaps need careful pump bracket selection to keep the belts quiet. Jeep CJs take well to power conversions, but you must keep an eye on header clearance and heat soak into the steering box on climbs. With solid axle rigs, consider a small steering cooler and a heat shield on the box side of the header.
On right-hand-drive conversions or imported vehicles, parts availability can be the limiting factor. You might fabricate brackets or adapt a domestic pump to a metric rack or box. In those cases, keep a clean log of part numbers and hose end types. Future you, or the next owner, will thank you when it is time to replace a hose ten years from now.
Aftercare and fluid service
Power steering fluid is cheap compared to pumps and boxes. After the first 500 miles, draw out the reservoir with a suction tool and refill. Repeat a couple of times over the next few weeks and you will have effectively refreshed most of the system without cracking lines. If your driving includes trails or towing, consider annual service. Dark fluid with a burnt smell points to heat or a slipping belt that had you overworking the pump at low speeds.
Grease the linkage at every oil change. Fresh drag link and tie rod ends can go from crisp to loose in a hurry if you forget them. And inspect the hose routing after the first trail day. Zip ties loosen, and hoses find ways to nibble on brackets you swore were miles away in the garage.
Where aftermarket steering components make the biggest difference
A quality aftermarket steering shaft with precision needle-bearing universal joints brings crisp response that you notice even in the first parking maneuver. A compact steering universal joint clears headers where rag joints do not. Reinforced pump brackets stop belt drama on engines with lumpy idle. If you lifted the vehicle or downsized the steering wheel, a slightly slower box ratio from a steering box conversion kit can tame dartiness and keep the truck calm at 70 mph. These are the spots where the aftermarket is not just chrome but function.
Universal joint steering parts also let you mix and match spline counts. If your column is a DD shaft and your box is 3/4-36, you can buy a joint that marries those two without hacks. Keep the joints in phase when you use two of them. Mis-phased joints create a nonlinear feel as you turn past quarter-lock. The fix is simply aligning the yokes so the angles cancel each other visually and mechanically.
Final road test and dialing in the feel
On your first real drive, pick a route with a few slow corners, a straight stretch, and a parking lot. Early signs of success include a wheel that returns to center smoothly, no hiss at idle with the wheel straight, and an absence of pulsing in the pedal or wheel when you turn against a curb. A faint hiss while turning slowly is normal on some pumps. A whine that rises with rpm means air or alignment.
Steer gently over a known bump with the wheel straight and then with the wheel turned slightly. If the truck darts when the wheel is off center, revisit caster and the relationship between the drag link and control arm angles. If wandering appears only after twenty minutes of driving, heat may be thinning the fluid or the pump is drawing in air on the return. A new clamp or a better hose route usually fixes that.
The best conversions feel invisible after a week. You stop thinking about effort, and the vehicle simply goes where you point it. That is the goal. Done right, a manual to power steering conversion preserves road feel and adds confidence at low speed. Whether you use a full power steering conversion kit or assemble your own mix of aftermarket steering components, patience in the setup phase pays you back every mile.
Borgeson Universal Co. Inc.
9 Krieger Dr, Travelers Rest, SC 29690
860-482-8283